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about my breedings
  • Progressing with every litter, it is my intention to breed true dachshunds.  Therefore, if you are just looking for a deadheaded toy lapdog — one without a terrier personality as well as terrier drives, which need training and work if possible — I would encourage you to do some research on other types of dogs to determine what would be a better fit for you.

  • I do not have litters all the time.  If you do not see the puppy you are looking for available at the moment, you are welcome to contact me to see if I might have the right one for you in the future.  (Or, if I don't/won't have what you're interested in, I may be able to recommend to you another reputable breeder somewhere in the country.)  You are encouraged to specify what temperament aspects, drives, structural type(s), size(s), coat(s), color(s), and/or pattern(s) you are interested in on the application form.

  • Also of note, I normally don't have medium/large dachs (medium/large standard) size, or kaninchen (rabbit) size.  Therefore if you are interested in one of these, please understand you may need to wait a few months or a year for the right pup for you to come along.  I plan to have kaninchens more often in the future.  I never have wirehairs.

  • All my pups' parents that I own are tested and evaluated for their IVDD-I (the back problem that affects dachshunds) status, and I am the only breeder I know of in North America who does this, even though up to 20% of dachshunds need surgeries in the thousands of dollars to fix their paralysis from this disorder.  My goal in the next couple of years is to be able to guarantee all my puppies against IVDD-I grades moderate and severe, meaning there will be much less of a chance they will ever "go down in the back".

  • I spend a good deal of time with each of my puppies to evalute their temperaments, drives, structures, and health, and I spend a good deal of time getting them out and about and socialized.  If they need special attention in any way, it is provided to them to ensure they go to their new families in the best mental and physical condition possible.

  • The price you pay for one of my puppies is dirt cheap considering the time and testing I invest in them.  Yes, my pups are more expensive than randomly-bred pups you can find in the paper, but they are also less expensive than most randomly-bred pet store puppies from puppy mills.  My puppies also have fewer health issues than those puppies typically do.
  • who my pups go to
  • No pup will be shipped via air (≈$285 extra) before it is ≈12 weeks old.  (Of note, though, there might be an occasional puppy I will not be willing to ship at all if I do not believe its temperament is suited to shipping.)  If possible, I prefer a new owner drive or fly in to pick their puppy up — that way I can meet them, they can meet me and my family and the puppy's family, and the travel isn't quite so hard on the pup.

  • I prefer to sell to buyers in the US and, if one can drive to a US border airport for pickup, Canada, simply because of the lengthy rabies quarantines that apply to many other countries.  However, if you live elsewhere and are set on having one of my wienerchildren, I may be willing/able to work with you.  The main issues are that, for a pup, I might have to keep it until it is up to seven months old for rabies purposes (this is an extra fee, and sometimes I just may not wish or be able to do this), and all purchase, housing/keeping, transportaion, and other related funds must be paid for up-front, ideally well in advance.

  • Returning customers are very welcome, and I do give a discount.  However, I do require three things:  that the guided evaluation of their last dachsie from me is completed and returned, and assurance that they have made reasonable efforts to socialize (get out and about in public places on occasion) and to train (house, crate, and the most basic obedience) said dachsie.

  • I do not sell to brokers, pet shops, or large-scale breeders.  I will only sell directly to pet owners who love dachshunds and likely, in the future, also to a few reputable, small-scale breeders when I have a pup I think is worthy of being bred.

  • I also reserve the right to not sell to any person for any reason at any time.
  • pricing, deposits, & payment
  • I may not know more than a general ballpark price of my puppies until they are at least 6 weeks old, as I determine an individual puppy's price based mainly on my perceived quality of its temperament, drives, health, and structure (much of which can't be known until the pup is a couple of months old), on my perceived quality of the parents, as well as on market value.  The size, coat type, colors, and patterns may play a more minor role in my pricing (longhairs lower, quality kaninchens higher, quality creams higher, and certainly quality dilutes higher along with a coat guarantee), and the sex plays no role in my pricing.  (The boys are just as good as the girls! :) )

  • Deposit/balance policy:  Because of the incredible amount of trouble I had in 2009 with initially normal-seeming people who subsequently strung me along for weeks and even months saying they wanted a particular puppy and then dropping off the face of the planet, I unfortunately find myself forced to switch to a deposit system.  I will now be requiring:

    - a $200 non-refundable* deposit received by the time the puppy is 6 weeks of age
    - the balance in full received by the time the puppy is 10 weeks of age.

  • If the puppy is older and has no deposit on him/her, the deposit along with the balance can be paid at once in one amount.

    * The following are the only reasons I would refund a non-refundable deposit:  if the specific puppy you have put a deposit on develops an issue (structure-, health-, temperament-, or drive-wise) you were not expecting and either of us think the puppy therefore wouldn't fit in best with your family, if the specific puppy you have put a deposit on passes away, or if the specific puppy you want I instead choose to keep back as a loaner.

  • I take cash in person (for deposits and balances), I take U.S. postal money orders by mail (for deposits and/or for the balance in advance of shipping), and I take personal cheques in person or by mail (ONLY for deposits and for balances well in advance, and must be the EXACT amount).  Because of so many scams going on, I will take no other form of payment.

  • All monies must be paid and cleared, and my copy of the contract must be signed and returned to me before the new parent can collect his/her pup.
  • purchase inclusions
  • the woofer! 

  • the neutering (castration for males, ovariohysterectomy for females)

  • an implanted microchip and the microchip form for lifetime paid registration

  • a health record showing:  that at the time of purchase, the puppy is healthy and up-to-date on its wormings and shots; when the shots were administered; when the puppy was vet-checked; if any abnormalities were found; when the neutering was done; and the contact information of my veterinarian

  • a contract that includes:  guarantees of breeder, including health guarantees; title reďmbursement info; guarantees of buyer; a first-right-of-refusal clause; etc.

  • toys, treats, some transition food (Orijen), a bottle of the best shampoo there is (EQyss), and, for longhairs, a slicker brush & stripper comb

  • information on proper and suggested mental and physical care of the puppy

  • an electronic version of the pedigree

  • an AKC registration form or, if already registered, an AKC registration transfer form (on applicable puppies)

  • one free training session and future training sessions at a discount (woofer's parent/family must schedule to come to my home, however)

  • lifetime phone/e-mail support for any questions regarding the physical, nutritional, mental, etc. care of the puppy
  • health guarantees
    For each pup from one of my breedings I also include the following guarantees* unless, in the case of disorders, previously known about and thereby already factored into the contract and purchase price:

    diseases
  • coccidia:  within 3 days of receipt; treatment refund up to $25
  • giardia:  within 3 days of receipt; treatment refund up to $25
  • parvo:  within 7 days of receipt; full treatment refund, exchange (if possible/practical), or refund + treatment cost if the worst should happen

  • disorders
    (disorders are genetic/congenital and do not cover/include environmental causes/triggers)
  • CDA:  partial to full refund for pet dilutes 6m-4y of age that develop hairloss along with recurring bacterial skin problems, as long as proper care as outlined by me has been given
  • moderate to severe cardiac disorders:  full refund under 1y of age
  • severe IVDD:  full refund under 3y of age**
  • severe neuro-muscular disorders:  full refund under 5y of age
  • severe patellar luxation:  full refund under 2y of age

  • * Each assumed disease must be conclusively determined with proof in writing by your veterinarian.  Each assumed disorder must be conclusively determined as being of genetic origin with proof in writing by two veterinarians, one of them of my choosing/approval.
    ** Only if testing is done and sent to me between 24 and 30 months of age, and only if myself or my specialist agree on the diagnosis of severe IVDD.
    puppy timeline
    The following is the typical schedule my puppies follow.  Depending on local events I may want to socialize pups at or depending on other factors, the first shot might be given a little earlier and/or the neutering might be a little earlier.  Unless I detect a problem with a pup, each pup only receives one vet visit, which occcurs at the same visit the pup is neutered.

  • birth:  about 60-61 days after conception
  • any time:  first veterinary check
  • 10-21 days:  eyes open
  • 3+ weeks:  mental and physical evalutaions performed by me
  • 4-5 weeks:  first public socialization visits
  • 8-9 weeks:  first shot (CAV2, CDV, CPiV, & CPV)
  • 10-11 weeks:  neutering (if going as a pet only)
  • new home:  any time after 9 weeks (if going as a loan-adoptee or potential breeder), any time shortly after neutering at 10-11 weeks (if going as a pet only).
  • 1 year:  guided evaluation completed by owner and sent to me :o)

  • I give all puppies a number of wormings.  The veterinary checkup includes but not limited to heart, ears, mouth, patellas, and coat/skin; and at least one set of vaccinations (adenovirus-2, distemper, parainfluenza, and parvovirus) before they leave my hands.  One or more pups from any litter may also be vision tested and/or hearing tested before a final decision is made on whether any such pups are kept back or to whom those pups will be sold.
    pet info & restrictions
  • I most likely will not sell a puppy to a potential owner/family that already has more than three dogs and/or cats, as I prefer that the puppy will be able to receive personal attention from his/her new family and ideally be worked if at all possible.

  • Any puppy sold as a pet will be neutered before it goes to its new home.  No exceptions.  If you are considering buying a pet puppy from me and would like information on early neutering in dogs, please feel free to contact me.

  • Any puppy sold as a pet will be expected to live indoors with its human family [and not simply in a crate 24/7, tethered to a tree, or allowed to roam the streets].  No exceptions.

  • An incentive reďmbursement of up to $100 will be granted upon the dog receiving an obedience, earthdog, field, tracking, agility, or racing title from the AKC or UKC or similar-quality foreign registry.  This demonstrates that you have taken the time to work with, train, and communicate with your woofer which strengthens the bond between you.

  • If you understand and agree to the above and are still interested in acquiring a puppy or adult from me, please fill out an application.  (You need to do so even if I have met you before online so that I can keep track of who has inquired about what.)  I try to do my best to screen any potential home for a dog of mine, and this form comprises some of the screening.  Please note that I will not sell/trade/give away the information you provide in the form to any outside party.
  • breeder info & restrictions
  • I will individually register with the AKC and/or UKC any intact puppy I sell, and I will choose its registered name.

  • An incentive reďmbursement of up to $100 will be granted upon the dog getting an obedience, earthdog, field, tracking, agility, or racing title from the AKC or UKC or similar-quality foreign registry.

  • Any breeder wanting an intact puppy must provide proof of patella testing (minimum of 14 months of age); spine testing (minimum of 23 months of age); and some kind of temperament, drive, and/or work evaluation for all of her breeding dachshunds.  If she cannot provide proof of these tests for each of her breeding age dogs, I will not be able to sell her a pup.

  • Any breeder wanting an intact puppy must also provide an explanation of why she wants the pup (work-wise or competition-wise and breeding-wise) and what specific goals she has for her breeding program as a whole.  If she cannot provide an answer that encompasses temperament, drives, health, and structure, I will not be able to sell her an intact pup.

  • These requirements are to help ensure I am comfortable with where my dogs go and not have to worry about their well-being, and so that I can help ensure my dogs do not end up in simple puppy production operations where quality of health and temperament are considered unimportant.  If you understand and agree to the above and are still interested in acquiring a puppy or adult from me, please fill out an application.  (You need to do so even if I have met you before online so that I can keep track of who has inquired about what.)  I try to do my best to screen any potential home for a dog of mine, and this form comprises some of the screening.  Please note that I will not sell/trade/give away the information you provide in the form to any outside party.


  • Thanks for reading!  :)


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